Club Repairs And Alterations
This section deals only with your existing clubs and while there may be some
overlap in what we say it's worth repeating. This is also what new club
manufacturers don't like to see but the fact is that almost any club can be
updated to perform as well as today's latest models at considerably less cost
than buying a new one. There are only three parts to a golf club, the head, the
shaft and the grip and everyone of these parts can be interchanged.
Shafts - This is the only active part of a golf club. It is the shaft that performs
all of the work in producing distance and accuracy. The grip is only a connection
to the hands and the head is just a hard material that compresses the ball to make
it take flight. Remodelling with the latest technology such as light steel, graphite,
light graphite, ultralite graphite shafts will bring most clubs up to today's standards
at a reasonable price compared to the cost of new clubs. Can you put these new
shafts in older clubs? Yes of course you can.
Grips- Much lighter in weight than the older style. This may not sound very
important but less weight translates into more distance. Everyone can swing
a 4 foot broom handle faster than a 4 foot 2X4 simply because it is lighter in
weight. If you can make a golf club lighter you can obviously swing it faster
the ball must fly further. Most older drivers for example weigh 13 to 14 ounces.
with lighter grips and shafts you can get this weight down to around 10 ounces.
Light grips are now available for any clubs.
Club Heads- They haven't changed significantly in weight during the last 30
years. Today's mammoth drivers weight about the same as real persimmon
wood heads did. The size of the head has increased dramatically over the last
few years through the use of stronger metals in stainless steel, titanium and
a host of metal combinations that can be made much thinner and still retain
the necessary strength to withstand the impact of hitting a ball. If you have
good shafts , consider replacing the heads instead of the whole club. You can
buy heads today made out of all the latest space age material at very reasonable
Loft & Lie - After constant pounding from hundreds of golf balls or
hitting the ground and practice mats both the loft and lie of a club can change
causing loss of distance and accuracy. Most older irons should be checked
periodically for this problem and brought back to their original specifications.
They can even be improved upon to make the ball flight lower, higher or even
further by most repair shops.
Re-grooving - Many irons have worn out grooves that provide little backspin
and poor flight. these grooves can be re-done, bringing the clubs back to their
original specifications or even improving on the clubs.
Bounce - This is a technical term for the angle of the sole on a iron. If you are
having a lot of trouble with skulled shots then you may have too much bounce
on your clubs. The sole of many irons is somewhat rounded to stop the head
from digging into the turf. In many cases this roundness also causes the iron
to bounce off the turf and skull the ball. If it's happening to you then have some
of the roundness removed and watch what happens to your shots when they
hit the greens.
Shaft Length - If your shafts feel to long to short or if you are looking for
more distance or accuracy have your shafts extended or cut down. This is
done by removing the grip , making the adjustment and replacing the grip.
Don't let anyone tell you a grip can't be reused. Unless it is worn out you
don't need to buy a new grip. Hooks and slices are often the result of the
wrong length shaft. If a shaft is too long the club head may be sitting on
it's heel while a club that is too short may be sitting on its toe. Often this
is incorrectly diagnosed as a need to change the lie of a club but the real
problem is incorrect shaft length. Think about buying a shirt. Sleeve
lengths vary from 29 to 38 inches so how can we all use the same length
Refinishing - Both wooden and metal heads can be refinished to look like
new. Nothing looks better than a persimmon golf club that gleams from it's
polished finish. Real wood heads are still available and some golfers tire
of the clank of some metal heads plus metal heads don't hit the ball much
further than a real wood head despite all of the manufactures claims. The last
real wood head most people remember hitting was long before shafts were
improved and today's golf ball were developed so everyone believes distance
had something to do with metal heads.
Grip Size - We all have different size hands and that's why they make different
size gloves. How can we then all have the same size grips on our clubs. Grips
can be sized to fit anyone's hands and come in junior, small, medium, large and
even for arthritic hands. The next time you need new grips have the shop
measure your hand and get the correct size put on. It will do wonders
for your shots.
Rattles - Either in the club head or the shaft. This is quite common and is usually
a piece of epoxy used to glue the parts together which has broken off, It has no
effect on the club's performance but is annoying and distracting. If the rattle is
in the shaft then the grip can be removed and the material will fall out. If it's in
the head which happens frequently with titanium heads then the shaft may have
to be removed to get the epoxy out. If this doesn't work then a hole must be
drilled in the sole and a sticky substance sprayed in the head to capture the
loose material and stop it from moving in future.
OEM - This is a term frequently heard which means "original equipment
manufacturer ". We bring this up because most manufacturers buy their heads,
shafts and grips from someone else and have the brand name silk screened
or stamped onto the parts. These parts are then called OEM parts. This allows
the OEM to control repairs and replacement much the same as the automobile
industry does. Most people know that if they have a muffler replaced with
OEM parts it will cost considerably more than having the same job done at
a muffler shop. The golf industry uses the same strategy and you can't blame
them because it increases their revenue and controls the quality of repairs.
Most independent repair shops can match the original specifications of the
part but don't have to use the real manufacturer's trade name which will save
youa lot of money. Watch out for this if you are considering new clubs as it is
common for brand names to develop something unique in size or design
that has no performance value in order to retain the repair control . It's
called merchandising but can be a consumer nightmare if the OEM goes
out of business or changes it's mind due to lack of customer acceptance.
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